Bike & Brew

Day 3 -- Hurts so good

They don't. But spinning along in first gear, bringing up the rear, I'm able to continue for about 56 of the day's alloted 69 miles. Not that I spent the ride in misery, though. The weather was mild, and we were taking in some of wine country's most beautiful landscape.

The first leg of the trip heads into the huge hills between Boonville and Sonoma County, which are covered with pines, poplars and moss-laden live oaks. A woman and collie herd sheep, and at the top of the steepest hill is a Christmas tree farm. The forested road presents some of the trip's most challenging hills, but each one came with what Tom, a veteran cyclist from British Columbia, calls "the payoff." That's the breezy ride you're rewarded with upon reaching the top of a hill; on those that are especially long and steep, you fly down with a feeling that's close to skiing.

We meander along backroads, through the Alexander Valley and into the Napa Valley, past patchwork-quilt vineyards colored red and yellow from the autumn chill. Signposts point the way to some of the dozens of wineries that are open to the public. They range from huge operations with vineyards all over Northern California to mom-and-pop establishments about the size of a large back yard.

Our destination is the famous spa town of Calistoga, and some riders schedule massages and spa treatments at our hotel, the Mount View. Then it's off to Napa Valley Brewing Co. for appetizers and beer. We order the American-style wheat beer and the malty red ale; Holly comments that the group doesn't seem very interested in stout.

Napa's beer garden is one of the prettiest anywhere. Twinkling yellow lights sparkle in the trees, and tall, fiery torches not only lend a dramatic air but provide warmth. Lush plants set off the white patio furniture, and a black cat prowls around near a fountain. The restaurant inside has walls lined with old doors bedecked with more gold lights. The Calistoga Inn, adjacent to the brewpub, offers lodging, and Backroads groups sometimes stay there.

Day 1: The adventure begins
Day 2: On to Boonville
Day 4: Touring Sterling Vineyards
Day 5: A long ride in Marin County
Day 6: The payoff, Golden Gate Bridge